From Italy to McLaren Vale

Where rolling vineyards meet the Fleurieu Peninsula coastline, McLaren Vale has become one of Australia’s celebrated wine regions, shaped in no small part by Italian migrants who brought old-world methods to South Australian soil. 

McLaren Vale lies about 40 kilometres directly south of Adelaide, wedged between the crystal-clear waters of St Vincent Gulf and the verdant valleys of Mount Lofty Ranges. Since the end of World War II, Italian migrants have settled in the region, bringing with them old-world winemaking traditions. The Grilli, Maglieri, Mitolo and Zerella families are among prominent Italian-Australians who have helped shaped the region’s distinctive wine culture.

Primo Estate was founded by Primo and Santina Grilli, who separately migrated from Le Marche, Italy, in the 1950s. They met in Adelaide, only to discover they had grown up less than one kilometre apart in Italy. They married and settled in the semi-rural suburb of Virginia, where they dreamed of one day planting their own vineyard. That dream became a reality in 1973, and by 1979 the family was ready for its first vintage.

In the 1980s, eldest son Joe Grilli began experimenting with Amarone and Ripasso winemaking methods. The Amarone technique involves drying grapes for months on straw mats or wooden racks to produce a higher sugar content that intensifies the flavour. The Ripasso technique involves re-fermenting a young wine over the nutrient-rich pomace left from heavier grapes. These traditional Italian methods inspired Primo Estate’s most popular wine, La Biondina Colombard—a crisp French white crafted with an Italian approach. By the 1990s, Joe had become a pioneer within the local wine scene, and in 2006 he opened his dream cellar door in McLaren Vale. 

Today, Primo Estate continues to celebrate Italian varietals that reflect the family’s heritage and innovation, including Pecorino, Montepulciano, and Sangiovese Rosé. 

Serafino Wines is just minutes away from Primo Estate. Originally from Abruzzo, Steve Maglieri—whose first name in Italian is actually Serafino—migrated to Australia in 1964. With the help of his father, he planted his first vines in McLaren Vale across a 350-hectare property. Father and son worked tirelessly, seven days a week, to build their winery. 

Steve’s dedication earned him the nickname “The Lambrusco King,” inspired by the lightly sparkling red wine of his homeland. During the 1990s demand for Serafino’s Lambrusco became so strong that the winery was producing four million bottles annually.

His daughter Maria Maglieri now leads the winery, continuing the family legacy while expanding its impressive Italian varietal portfolio. Alongside McLaren Vale staples like Shiraz, Serafino produces Italian wines including Fiano, Lagrein, Vermentino, Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio, Nebbiolo, and Primitivo. The winery offers one of the region’s largest collections of Italian wines.

Every second Saturday, Serafino Wines hosts live local music on its deck, where a glass of vino and the sounds of local musicians create a relaxed and melodic atmosphere.

A short drive from Serafino Wines sits Mitolo Wines. The Mitolo family also originated from Abruzzo before migrating to Australia in the 1950s. Descended from generations of viticulturalists, Frank Mitolo founded the winery in 1999, inspired by the old Abruzzese saying forte e gentile, meaning “strong and gentle.” The philosophy is embedded into every bottle they produce.

Mitolo is renowned for its Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, while also embracing Italian varietals including Nero d’Avola, Vermentino, and Glera.

Alongside its wines, the family celebrates la cucina povera—the traditional “poor man’s kitchen” centred on simple, local ingredients. Guests can enjoy Roman-style pizza and handmade pasta within Frankie Italo Dining & Disco Lounge, a lively venue complete with a large disco ball and dance floor that blends Italian hospitality with retro flair.

Just beyond Mitolo Wines lies Zerella Wines. In 1956, economic hardship in the Campania region led two families, headed by Francesco Zuzolo and the late Ercole Zerella, to seek a better life in South Australia. Together, they laid the foundations for their families’ lifelong love affair with wine.

Today, Jim Zerella follows in the footsteps of his late father Vic and grandfather Ercole. Through Zerella Wines, he produces a range of wines known as La Gita, featuring varietals such as Fiano, Arneis, and Barbera. The family’s philosophy remains grounded in a simple saying often repeated by Jim’s father: “You can make bad wine from good grapes, but you can’t make good wine from bad grapes.”

Wherever Italians go, they take their culture, traditions, and heritage with them. The Italian-Australian wine families of McLaren Vale embody the enduring spirit of Italian culture— preserving tradition while leaving an indelible mark on South Australia’s wine identity.

Article image: Frank Mitolo inspecting the soil around his vines. Photo by Sam Pearce.